Thursday, October 11, 2007

Air-con

I've been fighting a losing battle for over a year now. As someone who's lived much of her life in Minnesota, I'm pretty used to cool/cold/I-can't-feel-my-extremities types of weather. Thus, air-conditioning agrees with me. It does not agree with my coworkers, all of whom are Vietnamese and don't usually like air-conditioning. We do the following dance daily:

The air is off in the morning. I am hot. I turn it on. Coworkers glare. Two hours later, they have put sweaters on and are pleading to turn it up. I agree. An hour later, I come back into the room to find the air off. No one admits to tampering with the dial. I turn it on and down. Thirty minutes pass before it 'somehow' turns off again. Continue for the rest of the day.

On another note, we just came back from our annual ChildFund Teambuilding Retreat, this time at Cat Ba Island. Pictures and summary soon!

Monday, October 01, 2007

Raincoats, road rage, etc.

Because I have no cohesive thoughts this morning, nor do I have a "theme" for today's entry, here are a few random thoughts:

- The "ao mua" (a plastic raincoat, aka tarp) is a pretty essential item for those living in Vietnam, particularly during the rainy season when it can go from sunny to storms within minutes. People usually keep their ao muas in their motorbike storage compartment and you wouldn't believe the efficiency with which they can whip 'em out and put 'em on. It literally will take them less than 10 seconds for the entire "stop, put on jacket, and drive again" process. On the other hand, I have to stop my bike, fumble with the kickstand, unfold the jacket while searching which way is up, and wiggle it on like a five-year old who only learned yesterday how to get dressed. I'm usually halfway soaked by the time the jacket is on. Clearly, this is one of the things I can improve upon this year.

- The lack of road rage is remarkable here, considering that people usually flout any road rules or common courtesy. Whereas you can usually see Americans swearing, gesturing, and glowering in their cars during rush hour, most Vietnamese drive on, unfazed by how their driving affects others. A car nearly hit me the other day, the driver weaving through traffic as though he'd forgotten he was driving a large SUV, not a motorbike. At the next red light, I pulled up next to him, stared him down, and angrily asked what he thought he was doing. He glanced at me, bored, and looked idly away. Non-reciprocal anger just isn't as satisfying.

- There was a worm in my bathtub. I'm not sure how I crawled up the drain, but I've never seen that species of worm before. It was red and had long, curly antaenna. Very interesting.

- I've gotten to the point where I can understand the gist of everyday conversations in Vietnamese. It's certainly advantageous to begin to understand a language, have people assume you don't know a thing, and choose whether or not to address the situation. The other day, a man by the elevator made a couple of harmless, but male, comments about me. (Keep in mind: Although I look Asian, I neither act nor dress like most Vietnamese women and therefore can stand out as a foreigner.)

Man #2: "She may be able to understand us. She looks a little Vietnamese."
Man #1: "No, not Vietnamese. Maybe Singapore or Korean. She doesn't look like she heard anything." (smirk)

Uh-huh. I turned towards them. "I understood everything you said. It wasn't very polite."

We rode four more floors in silence before I exited. Oop.

Friday, September 28, 2007

Friday thoughts

At last, the weather might be changing from summer to fall. A few weeks ago, a chilly evening fooled me into thinking that my sweat rag may be needed no longer. That was a lie. Now, it seems as if the weather is finally cooling down. Sweat rag away, rain jacket almost retired, and I am ready with the long-sleeves. That's one thing I do miss about Minnesota...the autumns. Leaves changing and falling, cold nights, lighting a fireplace because it's actually needed rather than decorative, hot chocolate outside. I crave it. I need it. Although beautiful, fall in Hanoi isn't the same (though is still my favorite of the four seasons here). For anyone lucky enough to be kicking aside red leaves and wearing light coats, know that I am just a wee bit jealous!
Aside from that, things are going very well. I hate to sound like a broken record, but I do still love working here and being here. It's funny, though...the things that didn't bother me at all last year definitely get at me this year, and I suspect that next year would drive me nuts. It's interesting watching the adjustment of expats living in Vietnam and the transition from initial arrival to settling in. A friend of mine from college is moving here soon and his excitement, his questions, his anticipation was every bit what I experienced before I came. I remember nearly vibrating out of my shoes, I was so happy to be here. I feel differently now, but certainly not less happy about being here. I've said this before, but I feel more 'settled' now. Last year was definitely more volatile and transitional- I'm glad to have come to where I am now.
It's funny. Memories that I have from when I was younger, usually from interaction with Grandma or Dad, are clearer to me and have root in what I now know is simply a result of being Vietnamese or living in Vietnam. During a certain time every year, my grandmother would feed me dense cakes filled with egg yolk, sticky rice, even meat. I always ate reluctantly, never asked questions, but now know that it's customary to eat these cakes during Tet Trung Thu, otherwise known as the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival. My dad has a predilection for Laughing Cow cheese and french bread, a combination I used to find odd in America, but now know as staple foods in Vietnam. And the sneezes. Good lord, the sneezes. My grandmother and father can make two of the earth's loudest sounds while sneezing, something I've inherited (with glee), but could never fully exercise in the US where sneezes are stifled and noises politely muffled. Here, it's free reign and everyone gives each sneeze their all. The sounds can be awful. I love it.
New laws have been put into place recently that will require each person riding on a motorbike to wear a helmet. This. Is. Revolutionary. If you've ever been to Vietnam, very few people wore helmets, a remarkable fact given that almost everyone you meet has either witnessed, had, or knew someone who had been in a motorbike accident. Not only small brushes, mind you, but serious accidents. Fatal. Now, more and more helmets (genuine and not) are cropping up every day. Whether or not everyone will have them by the 15 December deadline is another thing- to not have a helmet is punishable by 'fining.' But still...it's a start.

Biking in Gia Lam

Friday, August 24, 2007

Back in Vietnam

...actually, I have been for about a month and a half. Sorry for the lack of updates! Hanoi was very hot when I returned although but is now starting to cool down. I no longer sweat when sitting still, which is a plus. I actually know how to speak some Vietnamese, versus last year where my first few weeks were a perpetual game of charades (miming "toilet brush" was one of the low points). Generally, things are easier this go-around and for that I'm glad.

(Sidenote: At the office now. A man I don't know just opened a window, took off his sandals, and climbed outside. Maintenance worker. No safety rope, no ledge, and we're on the 10th floor. I can't see him now. No one else is watching. Five minutes pass. And now he has clambered back in. He looks bored.)

What else. Work is busy and I'm so glad to be back at ChildFund. Got a new apartment. Bck into Vietnamese lessons, and thankfully, Co Chi believes my accent has not worsened with the time off. Found a great cafe that makes tra lipton sua with a bit of a twist. Miss the family but hope to see them in a few months. It's good and it's right to be back. Although I loved being back home and seeing family, this is where I should be right now. People ask occasionally if I ever regretted leaving my job a year ago to come here. After a quick laugh, the answer is always an unequivocal no. I've never regretted it. I live in Vietnam now...how could I?

Content, happy, anticipating, quiet. Not a bad way to start off the year.

Saturday, June 16, 2007

I'm in the US

In the rush that was the two weeks before I left Hanoi, I totally forgot to update and let my five readers know that I'll be in the US for a few weeks, returning in early July. Sorry la! I'm in the US now and it's bliss. More on that later. For now, have a picture and I'll be blog again shortly.

Ho Thuyen Quang

Thursday, May 17, 2007

Vietnam thoughts

A lot of friends and acquaintances ask me what I think about Vietnam, how I like being here, and so on. I love living in Vietnam, particularly in Hanoi. Since my bike was stolen (boo), I've started walking to get from place to place and I love it. As anyone knows, it's very easy for me to become ardent about Vietnam as I see things daily that make me want to smile and cry at the same time. The grittiness and the growth, the tradition and the contemporary, it's all merging together very quickly. Many people see Hanoi as a rich city, a place to go to improve your prospects and make some money, and while this can be true from some, there are countless others that are barely making ends meet...and who too often don't.

I was sitting on a bench by Ho Thuyen Quang at sunset, studying Vietnamese and watching passersby. Old men sitting three to a bench and chatting, grandparents with grandchildren, schoolkids buying ice cream from a vendor, shadows falling across motorbikes and trees. It was perfect, picturesque, and I was getting very caught up in the moment, actually...until I saw a older man walk down to the lake, unzip, and take a pee into the water.

Ahh. Lovely.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Tremors

No, not the grossly oversized worms that terrorized me when I was small (weren't those great movies?)...we've just experienced tremors in Hanoi. Around 4 pm today, our 10th floor office started swaying. My head spun a bit. For a moment, I thought I was dehydated. Luckily, shaking was short and minimal. This happened in the city center of Hanoi, but I'm not sure how much further it reached. It only lasted for a few moments and now all is back to normal. Thankfully, earthquakes are not common in Vietnam.

It's a sunny day in Hanoi and the stickiness of summer is starting to creep in. Time to start biking!